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It was 2005. The midst of the Sideways craze. And we were in Shell Beach for the World of Pinot Noir. Back then, I was still writing. And we were going on year one together.

We went to the Saturday tasting. We were probably -- not surprisingly -- two of the youngest people there. We laughed at the strange glass holders some people had around their necks. And the spitting techniques -- lots of dribblers. And the terrible, terrible fashion.

Somehow, we wove our way through the chaos and found ourselves at the Kosta Browne booth. This was before they were all over the pages of Spectator.

They were pouring out of decanters. Three of their vineyard-designated wines and three from the appellation series. I was blown away, especially by the Kanzler Vineyard wine.

And they were the nicest, nicest people at the tasting.

And now he works for them.

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